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		<title>Sensor on Warm IR Heating Zones</title>
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		<description>Recent content in Sensor on Warm IR Heating Zones</description>
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			<lastBuildDate>Tue, 21 Jul 2026 02:38:30 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
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				<title>Temperature sensor for glass oven</title>
				<link>http://warm-ir-heater-zone.com/en/posts/temperature-sensor-for-glass-oven/</link>
				<pubDate>Tue, 21 Jul 2026 02:38:30 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://warm-ir-heater-zone.com/images/0539f8d11cfcdd1efd2329f9dbab37bb.png&#34; alt=&#34;Temperature sensor for glass oven&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;stop-the-chipping-why-we-preheat-glass-with-ir&#34;&gt;Stop the Chipping: Why We Preheat Glass with IR&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who’s spent time cutting glass knows the frustration of a &amp;ldquo;corner breakout.&amp;rdquo; You score it perfectly, you break it, and then—&lt;em&gt;snap&lt;/em&gt;—the crack jumps. You end up with a jagged edge or a chipped corner that ruins the whole piece. Now you&amp;rsquo;re either tossing the part in the scrap bin or spending way too much time and money grinding it down to make it usable.&#xA;It’s basically a fight against internal stress.&#xA;The trick to stopping this is simple: don&amp;rsquo;t cut cold glass. We use shortwave infrared (IR) lamps to warm up the surface right before the cut happens.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;How it actually works&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Think of cold glass as being rigid and tense. When you break it, that tension makes the fracture want to wander. By &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;hitting&lt;/a&gt; it with some targeted IR radiation, we soften the glass matrix just a bit.&#xA;It doesn’t melt the glass, obviously. It just relaxes it enough so the crack follows your score line exactly where it&amp;rsquo;s supposed to go. You get a clean, crisp break. No jumping. No chips.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Getting the setup right&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;We usually go with shortwave quartz lamps. They’re great because they pack a lot of punch in a small space. You don&amp;rsquo;t have to waste time heating up a whole oven; the lamps hit the glass surface almost instantly.&#xA;But you have to be careful with the settings.&#xA;It&amp;rsquo;s a balancing act. If you crank the wattage too high or put the lamps too close, you&amp;rsquo;ll trigger thermal shock and crack the glass before you even touch it. Too low? And you&amp;rsquo;re right back to square one with brittle glass. To keep things steady, we use a pyrometer to watch the surface temp and tweak the heat in real-time.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;A few warnings from the shop floor&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If you&amp;rsquo;re planning to install these, just know it’s not exactly &amp;ldquo;plug and play.&amp;rdquo;&#xA;First, think &lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;about&lt;/a&gt; your airflow. These high-wattage tubes get incredibly hot. If your ventilation isn&amp;rsquo;t dialed in, you&amp;rsquo;re going to melt your wiring or warp your reflectors.&#xA;And please, keep the quartz tubes clean. A bit of dust or a few stray glass shards might not seem like a big deal, but they create hot spots. Those hot spots kill the tubes way faster than they should.&#xA;Oh, and one last thing: use high-temp leads. Trust me, you don&amp;rsquo;t want to find out the hard way what happens when standard insulation meets an IR lamp.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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